Acknowledgements = viii Foreword = x Introduction = xi Part One General Information = 1 Chapter 1 Background information = 3 Geoaraphy = 3, Climate = 7, Nature and conservation = 7, History = 8, Economy = 49, People = 57 Chapter 2 Practical information = 69 When to go = 69, DPRK travel = 69, Tour operators = 70, Getting there and away = 71, Red tape = 74, Health = 77, Safety = 81, What to take = 81, Money = 82, Getting around = 82, Accommodation = 83, Eatinng and drinking = 84, Nightlife = 84, Media and communications = 85, Shopping = 86, Customs = 87, Tourist information = 87, Cultural dos and don'ts = 90 Part Two The Guide = 93 Chapter 3Pyongyang = 95 Geography = 98, History = 98, Getting there and away = 103, Getting around = 103, Where to stay = 108, Where to eat = 109 Nightlife = 112, Practicalities = 113, What to see = 113 Chapter 4South: Pyongyang to Kaesong and Panmunjom = 133 Sariwon = 133, Kaesong = 135, Panmunjom and the DMZ = 141 Chapter 5West and Southwest: Nampo, Mt Kuwol and Haeju = 147 Nampo = 147. Mt Kuwol = 148, Haeju = 149 chapter 6Central: North from Pyongyang to Mt Myohyang = 154 Wildlife = 154, Where to stay = 155, What to see = 155, Walking = 157 Chapter 7East Coast Central: Pyongyang to Wonsan = 161 Wonsan = 161 Chapter 8South Coast to the Border: Wonsan to Kumgang = 165 Wildlife 165, Mt Kumgang 166 Chapter 9East Coast to Tanchon = 173 Munpyong = 173, Hamhung = 173, Tanchon = 176, Komdok = 178 Chapter 10 Northernmost Corner = 184 Rajin-Sonbong = 184, South of Rason = 190 Chapter 1 1Mt Paektu = 195 Wildlife = 197, Getting there = 197, Where to stay = 197, What to see = 198 Chapter 12The Border with China and Beyond = 199 Sinuiju = 199. Dandong = 201, South from Dandong = 207 North from Dandong = 207 Appendix 1Language = 215 Appendix 2Further Reading = 219 Index = 225.